They should hug your actual arms, closely following your natural lines, and stop in time to show a half-inch of shirt cuff. They almost always should. With the jacket buttoned, slide your thumb between the button and your gut. If your thumb is snug, good. Fasten your pants at your natural waist about an inch below your navel. Too loose? You might think of corduroy as a hefty winter fabric, but a thinner-waled version—especially in a kickass color like these—nails the precise balance of breeziness and structure you need for the springtime.
Vintage tie. For all the daring moves we're advancing elsewhere in this story, our preferred shirt-and-tie combination remains pretty classic: a clash of preppy stripes feels extra punchy at the moment. Look, we get it: you're probably not going shirtless with a suit anytime soon. But you might—and should! Jacket, price upon request , and pants, price upon request , by Casablanca. Necklace throughout , stylist's own. A plain white tee is always a safe bet under anything, but a little hint of soft color goes a long way with a strong patterned suit.
The trick to making all-white-everything feel a little less Colonel Sanders and a little more mid-'00s Diddy? Break up the starkness ever so slightly with a creamier-toned shirt and some busted-up sneaks.
And try your best not to flinch in the face of the inevitable spills and stains. Also great with a pair of white painter's pants when your suit is surplus to requirements. Celine Homme striped wool suit jacket. Buy Now. Celine Homme striped wool skate pants. Ami two buttons patch pockets jacket. Ami wide-fit pleated trousers. Sandro single button suit jacket. If there's one thing we here at GQ recommend more than anything—more than eating healthy-ish or investing in pinstripes —it's getting your damn pants hemmed.
Sadly, actor Hugh Dancy failed to get that done to the suit he wore to Monday evening's celebration of his new Hulu show The Path.
And khakis? Man, FUCK khakis. I own khakis strictly because my inner eighth grader has been trained to believe that you need khakis if you're going out to a fancy brunch or singing in a choir recital. I'd rather die than wear them. They're ugly and act as a magnet for piss stains. Also, the only thing I hate more than pants is shopping, so you see my problem. And, at long last, someone did. I found myself a guru.
A sensei. Enter Mark Anthony Green , GQ 's style editor and a man whose sartorial choices are so effortless as to be pure sorcery. I walked into his office and could instantly see that it pained Mark Anthony to look at me dressed the way I was.
I was like a toddler coming home from school covered in mud and paste. He was shaking his head well before I was finished talking. Nevertheless, he took it upon himself to be my personal pant coach and teach me to find that uncanny valley where being comfortable and looking good can miraculously coexist. Here now is what I learned from him during the long and painstaking process of pant rehab:. Don't wear your pants too low.
I looked down and my jeans were essentially suspended from my belt, like they were hanging off a clothesline. Don't wear pants that are too big. That means I'm buying jeans that start off baggy and only get baggier from there.
Mark Anthony recommended I start off by buying a pair of Levi's and breaking them in. Apparently, Levi's have a long "rise," which is the space between the waistband and the crotch, so you can wear them a bit higher. Not grandpa level, but high enough for men like me, who live in terminal fear of plumber's crack, to avoid such indignities. I need a lot of rise. Give me all of the rise.
Distressed jeans are dad jeans. Jeans that are one solid color read as more formal than any pair of worn-out jeans, which tend to look like they've done time in a Def Leppard video. Mark Anthony told me the jeans I was wearing when I met him were "distressing," presumably in both fabric and emotional impact.
If I could master solid jeans, I wouldn't need more traditional semi-formal pants at all. In other words…. Throw out your khakis. In , all weenie khakis can officially burn. Never again should any male child be scarred by a pair of Haggars.
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